Gorgonzola has quite specific likes – I’ve tried to find good partners for both the dolce and piccante.

This is a spin on Escoffier’s white asparagus with sauce maltaise. The two are often served as an accompaniment for a white fish such as turbot. Here the fish is plaice rolled around asparagus and a maltaise mousse and served as a canapé.

Dad made these for my girlfriend and mum at the weekend. A very pleasant surprise before dinner — with caviar!