Tortilla Tapas and Spicy Fried Chickpeas

This method for making a tortilla is authentic, and differs from other solid forms of omelettes as the potatoes cook in a deep pan of oil before adding eggs. This is the method used by Nestor’s Sports Bar in San Sebastian, Spain. My method differs slightly – I cook the onion separately, omit green peppers (though they would be a good addition), and cook the centre until firm (whereas Nesor’s is runny). I prefer a firmer middle to the omelette so it can be cut cleanly into a neat squares and is therefore more practical to manage – and to eat. It keeps well for a day in the fridge, but is best eaten on the day it is cooked.

Strain the oil and separate any liquid for using elsewhere. Nestor’s recycle half of the oil from the day before and presumably re-uses the rest in other dishes. As I was making a large tapas meal with several fried elements, I kept the oil and re-used it for frying croquetas, cheese balls and the initial frying of gambas.

Cooking the onions separately ensures the onions and potatoes are both evenly cooked.

1. Chop the onion and put in a small pan with a little olive oil and butter. Cook over medium heat until soft and transparent. Drain and set aside.
2. Chop the potatoes into 1cm sections. Pour enough oil to cover the potatoes into a deep wide pan and bring up to temperature – about 165C. (Not so hot that they start to go brown and crisp before being cooked). Carefully put the potatoes into the oil and cook until they are just cooked through but still quite firm. Drain the potatoes well.
3. Prepare your omelette pan. It is best to use a heavy non-stick 23cm frying pan, or well-seasoned cast iron pan of similar size. Heat the pan before adding the omelette.
4. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a fork, then add the onions, and beat again. Add the potatoes and quickly stir with a spatula. Season with salt and pepper and stir again.
5. Cover the bottom of the hot omelette pan with a thin layer of oil. Then carefully add the egg mixture so that eggs and potatoes are evenly distributed. Cook on a medium heat for about 5 minutes or until the omelette appears to be cooked and firm at the bottom and is beginning to set just under the top.
6. Turn the omelette using a large plate face-side-down on the top of the pan and carefully, holding both tightly together, turn upside-down. Quickly clean the pan of any sticking omelette and add another thin layer of oil. Carefully slide the omelette back int the pan and cook until firm. Cook the omelette so it is lightly brown on both sides; turn up the heat, if necessary, to create an attractive crust.
7. Serve warm or room temperature with the chickpeas below or increase the portions and serve for lunch or supper with a salad.

For the chickpeas

Use tinned chickpeas if preferred. Make sure they are small and have some firmness – i.e. not soft…

1. Soak the chickpeas overnight, drain, rinse, and place in a large saucepan. Fill the pan three-quarters full with cold water. Bring to a boil and continue boiling for 5 minutes, turn down the heat to low and part cover with a lid. Cook until the peas are tender. The time depends on the freshness of the peas. It might take less than an hour or more than two… Take off the heat and cool in the cooking water.
2. Strain out a small handful of chickpeas for each portion. Fry in a saucepan on medium high heat. When they just start to brown, strain the chickpeas and wipe the pan clean with a kitchen towel. Put the chickpeas back in the pan and season with salt and pepper and either sweet or hot Spanish smoked paprika (pimenton) and a pinch of oregano. Give the pan a good shake and serve immediately.
3. NB: Keep the left over chickpeas in their cooking water in the fridge. They will add interest to salads, braises, or just about anything you might want to cook or eat. After a night in the fridge, the cooking water will thicken and look gelatinous. This is ‘aquafaba’ and is a very useful substance. Use it instead of eggs for frying and many types of baking.